Starting a new skincare treatment can feel like a positive and proactive decision, especially if you’ve been struggling with persistent concerns like acne, dullness, or uneven texture. With high hopes and carefully selected products in hand, you may expect visible improvement within days. But instead, your skin breaks out, becomes flaky, or looks even worse than before. Sound familiar?
This frustrating phenomenon is actually quite common and often misunderstood. Many people experience an initial worsening of their skin after introducing new skincare products, especially those that increase cell turnover or contain active ingredients like retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, or Vitamin C. While this reaction can be alarming, it doesn’t always mean the product isn’t working. In many cases, it’s a normal – and even expected – part of the skin’s adjustment period.
This process is often referred to as “purging” – a short-term reaction that can occur when your skin is accelerating the shedding of dead cells and bringing underlying congestion to the surface more quickly than usual. However, not every reaction is a purge. Sometimes, what looks like purging might actually be a sign of irritation or even an allergic reaction, which needs to be addressed differently.
In this article, we’ll break down the science behind why your skin might seem worse before it improves. We’ll explore how to distinguish between purging and a bad reaction, how long purging typically lasts, which ingredients are more likely to cause it, and how to manage this tricky transition without giving up too soon.
Whether you’re starting a dermatologist-prescribed treatment or adding an over-the-counter serum to your routine, understanding this phase can help you stay patient and make informed decisions about your skincare journey.
What is Skin Purging?
Skin purging is a temporary phase in which your skin appears to get worse before it gets better. It’s a common response when introducing new skincare products especially those that accelerate cell turnover, such as retinoids, chemical exfoliants (like AHAs and BHAs), or acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide. While it might feel like your new routine is causing more harm than good, purging is actually a sign that your skin is responding to active ingredients and working to renew itself.
So, what’s actually happening during a purge?
Many skin concerns especially acne begin deep within the pores, where dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria build up over time. When you start using a product that increases cellular turnover, it speeds up the skin’s natural exfoliation process. As a result, all those “pre-formed” micro-comedones (clogged pores that haven’t surfaced yet) are pushed to the surface more quickly than they would have on their own. This sudden release can lead to a spike in breakouts, blackheads, whiteheads, or texture especially in areas where you commonly experience congestion.
While this phase can be discouraging, it’s important to remember that purging is not the same as your skin reacting negatively to a product. In fact, it often means the product is doing its job by accelerating the removal of impurities.
How Long Does Purging Last?
The purging process usually lasts around 4 to 6 weeks, though this can vary depending on several factors, including:
- Your skin type and sensitivity
- The strength and type of the active ingredient used
- How often you apply the new product
- Whether your skin is already accustomed to exfoliants or retinoids
If your breakouts start to subside after this initial period and your skin looks clearer and more balanced, it’s a good sign that you were experiencing purging and that the product is likely beneficial in the long run.
Common Signs of Purging
Not all breakouts are created equal, and distinguishing a purge from irritation or a true breakout is crucial. Here are a few telltale signs that you’re dealing with purging:
- Breakouts occur in areas where you typically get acne or clogged pores: Purging usually accelerates the life cycle of existing breakouts in your problem zones.
- The blemishes appear relatively quickly after starting the new treatment: You may notice small pimples or blackheads forming within the first few days to a week.
- The breakouts are generally short-lived and look like your usual acne: They might include whiteheads or small inflamed spots, but they don’t tend to linger for long.
- Your skin may feel a little irritated or dry: Mild redness or flakiness can accompany purging, especially with strong exfoliants or retinoids, but it should not be severe.
- Improvement follows the initial flare-up: If your skin looks worse for a few weeks and then starts to improve, that’s a good sign it was purging and not a reaction.
It’s important to be patient and give your skin time to adjust though that’s often easier said than done. Many people give up on effective treatments prematurely, not realising that a purge is part of the process. However, monitoring your skin carefully during this phase is crucial, especially if you’re unsure whether what you’re experiencing is normal.
How is Purging Different from True Irritation?
It’s completely normal to feel confused or even a little alarmed when your skin suddenly flares up after starting a new skincare product. Is it a purge? Is it a reaction? Should you stop using it immediately? These are common questions, and for good reason. At first glance, purging and true irritation can look surprisingly similar. Both can cause redness, breakouts, and sensitivity. But underneath the surface, they’re very different processes and understanding that difference is key to treating your skin properly.
Purging refers to a temporary reaction caused by active ingredients that increase the rate of skin cell turnover. As these ingredients speed up your skin’s natural renewal cycle, they bring underlying congestion such as blackheads, whiteheads, and microcomedones to the surface more quickly than usual. It’s essentially your skin hitting the “fast forward” button on pimples that were already forming below the surface. While it may seem like the product is making things worse, this process often leads to clearer, healthier skin in the long run.
Irritation, on the other hand, is your skin’s way of saying “this isn’t working for me.” It occurs when your skin barrier is compromised or when your skin reacts negatively to an ingredient either because it’s too harsh, poorly formulated, or simply not suited to your skin type. Unlike purging, irritation is not part of the healing process. Left unaddressed, it can actually lead to more harm than good, including prolonged redness, inflammation, and damage to your skin’s protective barrier.
What Causes Irritation?
Skin irritation can happen to anyone, regardless of skin type, though those with sensitive or reactive skin are especially vulnerable. Here are some of the most common causes of irritation in skincare routines:
- Overuse of active ingredients
Applying potent actives like exfoliating acids or retinoids too frequently or layering multiple strong products at once can overwhelm your skin. Even if each product is well-formulated on its own, combining them without proper spacing can lead to inflammation, peeling, and sensitivity. - Using a formula that’s too strong for your skin type
Some ingredients are simply too harsh for certain skin types, particularly dry or sensitive skin. For example, a high-percentage glycolic acid or prescription-strength retinoid may be too intense if your skin isn’t used to chemical exfoliation or vitamin A derivatives. - Allergens or sensitising additives
Ingredients like artificial fragrance, alcohols, or certain preservatives can irritate the skin especially if used regularly. These are common culprits for redness, itching, or inflammation, particularly around the eyes or cheeks. - Incompatible product combinations
Mixing certain actives without proper knowledge such as applying an AHA and a retinol in the same routine can lead to irritation. These powerful ingredients can work well individually but often require buffering or separation to prevent overstimulating the skin.
Even if you have relatively resilient skin, irritation can still occur if you introduce a new product too quickly, apply too much at once, or skip essential steps like moisturising. Without support from soothing or barrier-repairing ingredients, strong actives can leave your skin vulnerable to dehydration, peeling, and sensitivity.
Signs You’re Dealing with Irritation (Not Purging)
Recognising the difference between purging and irritation isn’t always easy but there are a few key signs that your skin is reacting rather than adjusting. Here’s what to look out for:
- Discomfort shortly after application
One of the first clues is how your skin feels immediately after using the product. If you notice a burning, stinging, or tingling sensation that lingers or worsens over time, it’s a strong sign of irritation rather than a purge. - Persistent redness, swelling, or sensitivity
Irritated skin often looks inflamed or puffy and may feel hot or tender to the touch. This is especially true if the redness spreads or stays long after the product has been applied. In contrast, purging tends to produce breakouts, but not widespread inflammation or swelling. - Breakouts in new or unusual areas
Purging usually happens in spots where you normally get acne like your forehead, nose, or chin. If you’re suddenly breaking out in places like your cheeks, temples, or neck, that’s more likely a sign of irritation or an allergic reaction. - No improvement over time
Purging should have a clear timeline: it typically begins within the first week of starting a new active and improves after 4 to 6 weeks of consistent use. If your skin continues to worsen or shows no sign of improvement after this period, the product may not be right for you. - Skin feels dry, tight, or itchy even when you’re not using the product
When irritation compromises your skin barrier, your skin may become hypersensitive, flaky, or itchy even when you apply gentle products like water-based moisturisers or cleansers. This ongoing discomfort is a signal that your skin needs rest and recovery not more actives.
When to Stick with It vs When to Stop
Trying a new skincare product can feel like a leap of faith especially when your skin doesn’t respond the way you’d hoped in the first few days or weeks. While some initial breakouts or changes are normal, knowing when to ride it out and when to stop is crucial for maintaining healthy, balanced skin.
A temporary purge may be uncomfortable, but it’s generally manageable and often leads to better skin once the adjustment period passes. However, true irritation or an allergic reaction can damage your skin barrier and make your skin worse over time. So how do you tell the difference and what should you do?
Here’s some practical guidance to help you assess your skin’s response and make the right call:
Stick With It If:
These are positive signs that your skin may simply be purging and will likely improve with continued, consistent use:
- The breakouts are happening in your usual acne-prone areas
For example, if you normally get clogged pores or spots on your forehead, chin, nose, or jawline (the typical T-zone and hormonal zones), and that’s where you’re seeing breakouts, it’s likely part of the purging process. - The breakouts are relatively mild and short-lived
You’re noticing whiteheads, small pimples, or texture changes, but not large, painful cysts or inflamed patches. These spots may come and go quickly rather than lingering or spreading. - You’re seeing gradual improvement after a few weeks
If your skin starts to settle down or feel smoother and look clearer around the 4- to 6-week mark, chances are the product is working as intended and your skin is just adapting. - You’ve introduced the product slowly and supported your skin barrier
Starting with every-other-day use or using a buffer (like applying moisturiser first before an active ingredient) can help minimise irritation. If your skin is tolerating this approach well, stick with it. - A dermatologist or skin specialist has confirmed the product is suitable for your skin
If you’re using a prescribed or recommended treatment and your provider explained that purging might occur, it’s usually safe to continue under their guidance.
Stop and Consult a Dermatologist If:
On the other hand, these warning signs suggest your skin is reacting poorly, and it may be time to reassess your routine:
- The irritation is persistent, severe, or getting worse after 4–6 weeks
Purging should begin to subside by the 6-week mark. If your skin still feels inflamed, painful, or increasingly sensitive beyond that point, it’s likely not just purging. - Breakouts are appearing in new or uncommon areas
If you’re suddenly getting pimples on your cheeks, temples, or neck, where you don’t usually break out, it could indicate irritation or a reaction to the product not purging. - You’re experiencing strong signs of irritation or an allergic response
This includes burning, stinging, persistent redness, swelling, itching, or peeling. If your skin feels raw or reacts even to gentle products like cleansers or moisturisers, stop using the new product immediately. - Your skin barrier seems compromised
You may notice increased dryness, sensitivity, tightness, or flaking, which means your skin’s natural protective layer is struggling. Continuing the product could worsen the issue. - The product isn’t delivering the promised benefits
If weeks have passed and your skin isn’t improving or is getting worse, it may not be the right formulation for you. There’s no shame in accepting that a product, even a popular or well-reviewed one, simply doesn’t suit your skin. - You’re feeling unsure or anxious about your skin’s response
When in doubt, it’s always better to get a professional opinion. A qualified dermatologist can help identify whether you’re dealing with purging, irritation, or something else entirely, and can recommend the best next steps based on your unique skin needs.
When in Doubt, Get Expert Advice
Navigating skincare can feel overwhelming, especially with so many products promising dramatic results. But skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all. What works wonders for one person might cause issues for another. If you’re unsure whether to continue with a product or take a break, trust your instincts and don’t hesitate to consult a dermatologist. They can help you avoid unnecessary damage, fine-tune your routine, and ensure you’re on the right track toward healthier skin.
Final Thought: Trust the Process, But Know When to Pause
When you start a new skincare treatment, it’s common for your skin to worsen temporarily before it gets better. Understanding the difference between purging and true irritation will help you make informed decisions about how to continue with your treatment. If your skin worsens after a new product, give it time to adjust, but if irritation persists or worsens, it’s time to consult a dermatologist in London for advice.
You can get in touch with us to book a consultation with one of our expert dermatologists in London. We’ll help you understand your skin’s reactions and find the best solutions for your skincare journey.
References:
- Perkins, S. et al. (2025) What to know about skin purging, Medical News Today. Updated 24 January 2025. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/skin-purging-vs-breakout
- Gabriel, expert commentary (2023) Skin purging: What is it, process, how long does it last, Medical News Today / RO. https://ro.co/dermatology/skin-purging/
- Derma review (2022) Is Your Skin Purging Or Is It Acne? How To Tell The Difference, Skin.Software Journal. https://www.skin.software/journal/skin-purging
- Self contributor (2023) Is My Skin ‘Purging,’ or Is Something Else Causing This Annoying Breakout?, Self. Published 4 May 2023. https://www.self.com/story/skin-purging-vs-breakout
- Pradhan, S. J. et al. (2024) “Retinoids a unique ingredient for skin rejuvenation employing novel drug delivery systems”, Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 14(07), pp. 29–44. https://japsonline.com/abstract.php?article_id=4265&sts=2&utm_source=chatgpt.com